My perspectives on Israel and the Bible

Tag: Maktesh Ramon

DARKNESS DESCENDING

Evil is on the move. Darkness is descending.

Yet God remains sovereign.

Joel Rosenberg (1)

After the big fire here in the Judean Hills, I headed off for a few days down in the desert. As I was passing just south of Beer Sheva I noticed a strange, and very bright light in the sky. Some 30 or so kilometers on, it was still there but by then I could see it was attached to a very tall tower, and there appeared to be ‘arms’ of light radiating from around it in the dusty desert air. The first thought that came to my mind was the Eye of Sauron (from the Lord of the Rings). Apparently I am not alone in making this association and it has indeed been dubbed Israel’s Eye of Sauron. It felt somehow very sinister.

Sauron’s Eye in Mordor, from “The Lord of the Rings”
Sauron’s Eye?

Once I returned home I discovered that it was part of the new Ashalim Solar Power Station and the structure merely collects the light from some 55,000 mirrors and uses it to generate electricity. Even though I am all for solar power, and it really is nothing at all sinister, it was hard to shake that feeling as I continued my journey south.

A blackstart begging for a grape

I had made this journey into the desert because I was wanting some guidance concerning some personal decisions. I can hear the LORD more clearly in the desert and away from all the busy-ness of everyday life. On my first evening there I walked the path along the rim of the Machtesh and enjoyed the setting sun across its incomparable views. The next day I spent some very pleasant hours sitting in the shade of an acacia tree in a pretty wadi, communing with the little birds who visited me hoping for a tidbit (I didn’t disappoint), but I didn’t hear from the LORD.

(for more on the Machtesh, visit https://taliasjoy.com/2020/06/03/maktesh-ramon/ )

Sunset at the Maktesh

On my last evening at the Maktesh, I took a drive along the northern rim of the Maktesh and found a convenient rock on which to sit to watch the sunset. As usual, it was stunning. This time however it felt very different. As I watched the shadow creeping across the canyon floor, I was filled with a deep sense of dread. It felt ominous and threatening. There were some scattered bushes reaching their branches skyward and they caught the sun for a while, but one by one, the shadow blotted them out until all was dark.

Darkness covers the Land

I felt that this was a warning from the LORD. Darkness is creeping over the Land, and indeed the whole world, just as the Lord told us it would towards the end, not just in the world, but also in the church. Some believers here and there are holding out against the darkness but many are succumbing to the lies and wiles of the Enemy, and are ceasing to shine. My prayer for myself, and for you, is that we will not be snuffed out in the coming days of darkness when God judges the world, but will continue to shine as beacons in that darkness. May we all be found faithful until the end.

As Jesus was sitting on the Mount of Olives, the disciples came to him privately. “Tell us,” they said, “when will this happen, and what will be the sign of your coming and of the end of the age?”

 Jesus answered: “Watch out that no one deceives you.  For many will come in my name, claiming, ‘I am the Messiah,’ and will deceive many. You will hear of wars and rumors of wars, but see to it that you are not alarmed. Such things must happen, but the end is still to come.  Nation will rise against nation, and kingdom against kingdom. There will be famines and earthquakes in various places.  All these are the beginning of birth pains.

 Then you will be handed over to be persecuted and put to death, and you will be hated by all nations because of me.  At that time many will turn away from the faith and will betray and hate each other,  and many false prophets will appear and deceive many people.  Because of the increase of wickedness, the love of most will grow cold,  but the one who stands firm to the end will be saved.  And this gospel of the kingdom will be preached in the whole world as a testimony to all nations, and then the end will come.

Matthew 24: 3-13

I had not received the personal guidance I was seeking but the LORD had spoken to me. I came home with a deep sense of dread and horror about what was coming upon the world and upon us all. Time is short and soon it will be too dark to do anything but hide until the wrath is past .

Go, my people, enter your rooms
    and shut the doors behind you;
hide yourselves for a little while
    until his wrath has passed by.
 See, the Lord is coming out of his dwelling
    to punish the people of the earth for their sins.
The earth will disclose the blood shed on it;
    the earth will conceal its slain no longer.

Isaiah 26:20-21

If you doubt my words, then just turn on the news. The world is gripped by a pandemic which looks like it is here to stay for the long haul, climate change is wreaking havoc around the world, bringing famine, floods and fires, the nations are at war, democracy is devolving into anarchy, and the church is falling into apostasy. Of course we should not be alarmed by such things. Yeshua (Jesus), the Prophets and the Apostles all warned us this would happen. We have long expected it but now the reality is upon us and it is difficult to know how to live in these days, knowing it will only get worse. Yet we should not despair, we who know Yeshua, as all this heralds His return and our ultimate salvation. If you do not yet know Him, call upon his name before it is too late.

When I said, “My foot is slipping,”
    your unfailing love, Lord, supported me.
 When anxiety was great within me,
    your consolation brought me joy.

Psalm 94: 18-19

AFGHANISTAN

Perhaps one of the darkest corners of the world right now is Afghanistan. No doubt you have all been following events there as thousands try to flee the Taliban and its coming imposition of strict Sharia Law. The CBN reports that there are at least 5-8,000 Muslim Background Believers (MMBs) in Yeshua in Afghanistan. Unless they are rescued, they face almost certain execution. Earlier this week a Christian organization, the Nazarene Fund, raised more than 28 million dollars to charter planes to evacuate MMBs and other at-risk people from Kabul. With this money they had some 20 planes ready to do the airlift. At first things went well and several planeloads left Kabul carrying at least 1200 people to safety by Tuesday (2). It was hoped that by the end of the week at least 7,000 would be rescued. However on Wednesday last week a plane had to leave Kabul empty because the refugees were unable to reach the airport (3). Now following the terrible suicide attack on Thursday it is even more difficult to get to the airport and the August 31st deadline is fast approaching. It seems certain that many will be left behind to face almost certain martyrdom in Taliban Afghanistan. We need to pray fervently for our brothers and sisters in the Lord. May the LORD rescue them or give them strength to stand firm to the end.

Rescue those being led away to death;
    hold back those staggering toward slaughter.

Proverbs 24:11

Update: It is now the 31st of August and the last American soldier has left Afghanistan. Hundreds of American citizens, thousands of Afghanis who helped the US forces, and thousands of Christian and other minority groups are left behind to face their fate. The Taliban are now the governing power of Afghanistan. Do not be deceived by their words. A leopard may cover his spots for a time if it suits, but underneath, the spots do not go away. Already, behind the cameras, the Taliban are executing those that have aided coalition forces or that they see as infidels. Girls as young as 12 are being forcibly ‘wedded’ to Taliban fighters. When the cameras are silenced the massacres will begin and the rest of the people of Afghan will have to live under an oppressive and brutal regime, imposing a Medieval interpretation of Sharia Law. It is the women who will suffer the most.

Pray that the airport will reopen soon and some more people will be permitted to leave. There is little hope that people can flee via land borders. Where would they go? Pray for our brothers and sisters in the LORD, those that didn’t manage to escape, that God will open a way of escape somehow, or that He will give them the courage and faith to stand even until martyrdom if necessary. Pray too for those who did escape, leaving behind everything they have known, all their possessions and, in some cases, family members. Pray that the people of the free world, already suffering from ‘refugee fatigue’, will open their hearts to receive and provide for these people.

At the Kabul international airport on Aug. 21, 2021.
At the Kabul Airport August 21, 2021 US Airforce via AP https://www.usatoday.com/story/opinion/todaysdebate/2021/08/24/afghan-refugees-welcome-your-new-home-america/8243620002/

ISIS-K

The Afghanistan fiasco has also seen the re-emergence of ISIS onto the world’s consciousness. ISIS has never gone away, the ideology is strong and spreading, and it has just been waiting in the wings for another opportunity to establish its Islamic State. ISIS-K (the Islamic State of Iraq and the Levant – Khorasan Province) has claimed responsibility for the horrendous suicide bombing at the gates of the Kabul Airport killing at least 170 Afghani and ex-pat refugees and 13 American military personnel, and wounding many more. Although the Taliban and ISIS-K have similar ideologies, ISIS-K believes the Taliban have compromised too much with the West. In other words, ISIS-K is even more brutal and extreme than the Taliban (if that is possible!). Although too small numerically to pose a real threat to the Taliban in Afghanistan, ISIS-K is carrying out these attacks in order to embarrass the Taliban and recruit new members from its ranks. It seems likely that in the coming days there may be further attacks on those trying to flee the country.

Update: Yesterday (30/08) the US forces intercepted 6 missiles that were fired at the Kabul Airport. ISIS claimed responsibility for the missile attack. The day before that the US forces had destroyed a car that was being loaded with explosives in preparation for a car bomb attack on the airport. According to intelligence reports there remains a threat of further attacks on the airport.

With the Taliban claiming victory over the USA, and the reappearance of ISIS on the world stage, fueling the confidence of all extremist Muslim groups, we can expect a further destablization of the Middle East and an increase in terror attacks worldwide.

GAZA

One of the groups celebrating the Taliban victory (as they see it) is Hamas. Hamas is once more stirring up trouble with Israel. Since the May confrontation between Hamas and Israel, indirect negotiations have been taking place to draw up the terms of a stronger ceasefire agreement. These negotiations are deadlocked leading to frustration on both sides. Since May Israel has maintained tight restrictions on Gaza, significantly limiting imports and exports and complicating the reconstruction. A little while ago, Egypt totally closed its border crossing to Gaza.

In recent weeks the tension on the border has been increasing once more. Several rockets have been fired into Israel, incendiary balloons have ignited fires, and there have been a series of demonstrations and riots at the border leaving at least 2 Gazans dead, including a 13-year-old boy. An Israeli soldier was also killed after being shot in the head through a hole in the border barrier on Saturday, 21st August, during a demonstration. Hamas’ deputy chief in Gaza, Khalil al-Hayya said, “Our mobilizing masses have come to announce that the path of the Sword of Jerusalem is renewed,” using their name for the May operations (4).

Over the last few days there have been nightly border riots instigated by the ‘night confusion units’, which are not officially tied to Hamas, though they could not operate without their approval. During these riots, burning tires and explosives are lobbed towards Israeli soldiers. For some reason, in spite of these actions, Israel has in recent days agreed to allow Qatari money to enter Gaza and has relaxed limitations on the fishing zone. On Monday this week Israel also allowed the entry to Gaza of 30 truckloads of cement, 120 trucks of gravel and 15 trucks of steel (5). These conciliatory actions are intended to cool the escalation and prevent all out war, but I fear they may have to opposite effect of encouraging violence against Israel by rewarding the rioters for their actions. It seems a dangerous path we are treading.

CORONA IN ISRAEL

Today, 1 September, 2.5 million Israeli children returned to school, in the midst of our worst wave of coronavirus infections to date. Yesterday two milestones were passed. In just 24 hours more than 11,000 new cases were reported, the highest daily increase since the beginning of the pandemic, and the same day we passed 7,000 deaths, 500 of which occurred in August alone. Over the last 7 days Israel has had the highest number of new infections per capita in the world, according to the figures published by Oxford University (6). And this is in spite of the fact that Israel has vaccinated around 70% of its population with at least 2 shots. Over 2 million Israelis have also been given a third booster dose.

נשיא המדינה יצחק הרצוג מגיע לבית הספר ענבלים במודיעין
President Isaac Herzog joins a first grade class at a Modiin school on the first day of the school year
(Photo: Roi Rubinstein) https://www.ynetnews.com/article/hyv445hbt

You may wonder why our infection rates are so high in spite of our vaccination program. There are a number of reasons. One is that many Israelis were permitted to travel abroad this summer and many returned with the virus, in spite of quarantine and other requirements. Another is ‘corona fatigue’ amongst the population. Many are tired of all the confusing regulations, which change on an almost daily basis, and are simply choosing to ignore them. There is very little enforcement. Israelis are very gregarious and like to congregate socially in large numbers. Then thirdly there are the 30% of the population, including all the children under the age of 12, who have not been vaccinated, and this sector acts as a reservoir for the spread of the disease. The Delta variant is much more infective than earlier variants, and the vaccines are not 100% effective against the transmission of the virus. Some fully vaccinated people are falling ill, though data is indicating that they are 6x less likely to suffer serious illness if they do. The situation is bad, but I dread to think what it would have been had we not had the vaccinations available.

ROSH HASHANA

This coming week, from sundown on Monday until sundown on Wednesday we will be celebrating Rosh Hashana, the Jewish New Year. This festival involves the congregation of large numbers of people in synagogues and at the Western Wall, and the gathering of families and friends for festive meals. You can read more about the significance of this festival for Jews on https://www.chabad.org/library/article_cdo/aid/4762/jewish/What-Is-Rosh-Hashanah.htm. In the past an estimated 100,000 people attended the Shleichot prayers, which take place on the afternoon and through the night of the first day. This year attempts are being made to limit the size of the crowds but even so, it represents a potential hotbed for the transmission of the coronavirus.

Sleichot prayers at the Western Wall in 2015

HOPE IN THE LORD AND REJOICE ALWAYS

I raised the question earlier of how we must live in these dark days. We must continue to run the race with perseverance and diligence. We keep close to our Lord, praying fervently and studying his Word. We push on to the goal that lies before us, the upward call of the Messiah (Philippians 3: 14). One of my favorite passages in the Bible is this, and it gives us excellent advice:

 Rejoice in the Lord always. Again I will say, rejoice!

 Let your gentleness be known to all men. The Lord is at hand.

 Be anxious for nothing, but in everything by prayer and supplication, with thanksgiving, let your requests be made known to God; and the peace of God, which surpasses all understanding, will guard your hearts and minds through Christ Jesus.

 Finally, brethren, whatever things are true, whatever things are noble, whatever things are just, whatever things are pure, whatever things are lovely, whatever things are of good report, if there is any virtue and if there is anything praiseworthy—meditate on these things. The things which you learned and received and heard and saw in me, these do, and the God of peace will be with you.

Philippians 4: 4-9

A little Fat Sand Rat friend I made down at Mitzpeh Ramon. He is eating his favorite food – saltbush.

References:

  1. Joel Rosenberg https://allarab.news/why-do-afghani-christians-believe-they-face-genocide-from-the-taliban-and-how-can-we-pray-for-our-brothers-and-sisters-in-harms-way/
  2. https://www1.cbn.com/cbnnews/2021/august/after-raising-over-28-million-to-rescue-afghan-christians-glenn-beck-shares-incredible-update
  3. https://www1.cbn.com/cbnnews/israel/2021/august/israel-based-org-nbsp-helps-send-rescue-flights-to-kabul-to-save-as-many-souls-as-we-can
  4. https://www.timesofisrael.com/17-gazans-said-injured-in-clashes-with-israeli-troops-at-renewed-border-protests/
  5. https://www.timesofisrael.com/palestinians-riot-along-gaza-border-for-4th-night-after-israel-allows-goods-in/
  6. https://www.timesofisrael.com/schools-set-to-open-with-israels-per-capita-covid-rates-among-worlds-worst/

MAKTESH RAMON

Maktesh Ramon at sunset, from Camel Mountain.

I think my favorite place in all of Israel has got to be Maktesh Ramon in the Negev Desert. I can never tire of this place – its geological forms, its colors, its moods, its variety of landscapes and its wildlife are just stunning.

The floor of Machtesh Ramon Jan 2017

A ‘maktesh’ is a geological formation found only in the Negev Desert of Israel and in the Sinai Peninsula. ‘Maktesh’ is the Hebrew word for a mortar (as in mortar and pestle), and refers to a bowl-shaped crater formed by erosion when a harder layer of rock (dolomite or limestone) overlays a softer layer of sandstone or chalk. The soft rock erodes away and the harder rock above it then collapses to form steep canyon walls. There are 5 makteshim in Israel– Maktesh Ramon, the Big Maktesh, the Small Maktesh and two other small makteshim on Mt Arif, south of Maktesh Ramon. Of these Maktesh Ramon is the largest, measuring some 40 km in length and, at its widest, 10 km in width. Unlike the others it is not shaped like a circular bowl but like an elongated heart, as you can see in this satellite photo.

Maktesh Ramon from space.

The Maktesh is some 500m deep and the exposed rocks on its floor are thought to be some 200 million years old. The northern rim is a vertical wall of rock offering spectacular views and a record of geological time for geologists. The Maktesh is formed from an eroded hill that was uplifted from the floor of the ancient Tethys Sea. Hard limestone overlays various colored strata of sandstone and chalk. Dark volcanic hills of basalt dot the floor of the Maktesh.

The northern rim of Maktesh Ramon March 2017

The best time to visit the Maktesh is late afternoon when the angle of the sun brings out the vivid colors and forms in the crater floor.

The Crater Floor – the dark hills are the basalt remains of ancient volcanoes.

On the northern rim there is a small town called Mitzpeh Ramon. ‘Mitzpeh’ means ‘lookout’. Near the town is a small knob of a hill with the silhouette of a sitting camel, and it is called Camel Mountain. On the top of the ‘camel’s hump’ there is a wooden viewing platform. It is a wonderful spot from which to watch the sunset.

Camel Mountain.
A sunset from Camel Mountain

Another spot perfect for watching the setting sun is the Sculpture Park that stretches several kilometers along the northern rim to the east of the town.

Mt Arsuf at sunset from the Sculpture Park
the Sculpture Park at sunset
An Israeli stonehenge?

A camel ride in the Sculpture Park at sunset.
Ibex at sunset in the Sculpture Park

Another point of interest in the Sculpture Park are fossilized footprints.

fossilized camel prints (?)

In winter the rocky platform nearest the town is ablaze with the flowers of this shrubby succulent that somehow manages to survive on this exposed site.

Can anyone identify this plant?

If you have a few thousand dollars to throw away you could even stay in one of Israel’s most luxurious hotels, the Beresheet Hotel, near the Sculpture Park, and yes, each unit has its own swimming pool in addition to magnificent views of the Maktesh. And no, I have never stayed there and probably never will. I usually stay at the much more modest, but perfectly adequate, Field School just outside the town. There are many other options for accommodation ranging from camping or zimmers (B&Bs) to 5 star hotels.

The Beresheet Hotel in Mitzpeh Ramon

In Mitzpeh Ramon there is a large visitors center which features a display about Ilan Ramon, Israel’s most famous fighter pilot who spent a lot of his free time in the Maktesh area. Ilan was one of the pilots who flew to Iraq and bombed the nuclear reactor that Saddam Hussein was building there. He was also selected to be the first (and to date, only) Israeli astronaut but tragically he was killed on his first space flight, in the Columbia spacecraft that exploded in 2003. Sadly Ramon’s eldest son, Asaf, was also killed just 6 years later in an air force training flight accident.

The visitor center also has excellent displays, models and films about the geology and wildlife of the area. Nearby too is a tiny zoo featuring the smaller wild animals of the area, those that one seldom if ever will see in the wild. Its worth a visit just to get a close up of these beautiful creatures.

Its got to be the cutest denizen of the Maktesh – a Fat Sand Rat
Also cute in its own prickly way – a porcupine
Not cute at all – Horned Viper – but beautiful in its own way

Roaming around the streets of Mitzpeh Ramon you will without doubt encounter members of a semi-tame herd of ibex. They are not beyond accepting a tasty handout – even though it is forbidden to feed them!!!

Siesta time for grandad ibex
Do not feed the Ibex!

In the grounds of the visitor center is a curious stone tumulus (burial mound or cairn) from the 3rd millenium BCE.

A stone tumulus from the 3rd millenium BCE

There is a lot to do in and around the Maktesh. You can go stargazing (recommended) or do archery (a lot of fun) or even pat alpacas and llamas at the Alpaca Ranch. If you are of the adventurous kind you might even like to try abseiling down the cliff near the visitor center. (And no, I chickened out of that one). Every year when the Perseid meteor shower is visible thousands of Israelis flock to Mitzpeh and the town extinguishes its lights so that the meteors can be seen to best effect. I can also recommend joining a guided tour in a 4×4 which will take you to places otherwise inaccessible. (Note all the places described here are easily accessible by a regular car, bicycle or on foot).

Abseiling in Mitzpeh

If you descend the snaky road to the Maktesh floor there are many places to visit. One fascinating place is the Carpenter’s Shop, a hill made of the hexagonal crystals of sand that was once melted by volcanic action – the only such formation in the world.

Crystals formed from melted sand – the Carpenter’s Shop in the Makhtesh

The path to the top of the Carpenter’s shop is constructed from recycled plastic and if you are wearing rubber soled shoes you will get a shock if you touch the rope that serves as a handrail. I call it the electric road!!

The ‘electric road’ made from recycled plastic

A couple of kilometers past the Carpenter’s Shop is a site which was until recently mined for the colored kaolinite clay found there. The mine has now closed down and, though not signposted, the area is now open to the public and can be accessed by a good road which is passable even for regular cars and bicycles. The colored clays are spectacular.

Copper, iron and manganese clays at the old mine site.
Colorful rock at the mine site – its not lichen its different colored minerals.
Different colored clays at the mine site

Not far from the mine site is the Saharonim Spring, the only perennial water source in the Maktesh. For this reason its a great place to spot wildlife but you need to be quiet and patient. If you are lucky you may see the Asian wild ass (Onager) or the mountain gazelle herds that have been reintroduced after going extinct in the area. More likely you will see some Nubian ibex which are less afraid of man.

The Saharonim Spring at the deepest point of the Maktesh
Ibex at the Saharonim Spring
How many ibex can you see? (There are four)

Near the Saharonim Spring are the ruins of an ancient Nabatean khan or caravanserai which lies on the Spice Route that stretched from Yemen on the Persian Gulf to the port of Gaza on the Mediterranean Sea. The Spice Route crosses the eastern end of the Maktesh.

The Nabatean Khan

From Saharonim Spring there are a number of hiking trails. One is a circular route around the mountain to the east of the spring. This easy 2 – 3 hour trail is a favorite of mine and has a number of interesting features and if you are quiet you might spot some special wildlife too.

On the circular trail from Saharonim Spring
The holes in the rocks are formed by the roots of mangroves and some even contain the fossilized remains of the roots which indicate that this area was once a coastal mud flat.
A friendly little blackstart
An equally friendly Arabian babbler
A chalk canyon

Not far from the Saharonim Spring is the Ammonite Wall. These ancient fossils, some as large as half a meter in diameter, were once common all around the Maktesh but sadly many were looted for sale as decorative pieces. You can still see them at the Ammonite Wall. It is of course now forbidden to take any of the fossils.

Fossil Ammonites at the Ammonite Wall

There are many other hiking trails around the Maktesh and much to see and experience.

An acacia tree.
A wheatear on a flowering acacia tree.

Blackstart in an acacia tree
Spotted sand grouse
Wadi Gavannim

I hope you have enjoyed your virtual visit to the Maktesh. If you come to Israel don’t miss it. There is so much to do and see – but you need a car to access the sites. There are many other places that can be visited only by 4×4 or on foot. It would take a book to describe them all. The best time to visit the Maktesh is during the winter as in summer it can be very hot. In winter it can be cold at night and snow is not unknown on the higher parts. It is forbidden to stay in the Maktesh at night, not only for safety reasons but also to protect the wildlife, which is mostly active during the night hours. It is also dangerous to hike or visit the Maktesh floor when there is rain in the area because of the risk of deadly flash floods. In such conditions the roads may be closed.

All the photos are copyrighted in my name. If you wish to purchase any for use in publications (books or online), please contact me. I can supply higher definition photos than those that appear here.

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