My perspectives on Israel and the Bible

Tag: Negev Desert

MAKTESH RAMON

Maktesh Ramon at sunset, from Camel Mountain.

I think my favorite place in all of Israel has got to be Maktesh Ramon in the Negev Desert. I can never tire of this place – its geological forms, its colors, its moods, its variety of landscapes and its wildlife are just stunning.

The floor of Machtesh Ramon Jan 2017

A ‘maktesh’ is a geological formation found only in the Negev Desert of Israel and in the Sinai Peninsula. ‘Maktesh’ is the Hebrew word for a mortar (as in mortar and pestle), and refers to a bowl-shaped crater formed by erosion when a harder layer of rock (dolomite or limestone) overlays a softer layer of sandstone or chalk. The soft rock erodes away and the harder rock above it then collapses to form steep canyon walls. There are 5 makteshim in Israel– Maktesh Ramon, the Big Maktesh, the Small Maktesh and two other small makteshim on Mt Arif, south of Maktesh Ramon. Of these Maktesh Ramon is the largest, measuring some 40 km in length and, at its widest, 10 km in width. Unlike the others it is not shaped like a circular bowl but like an elongated heart, as you can see in this satellite photo.

Maktesh Ramon from space.

The Maktesh is some 500m deep and the exposed rocks on its floor are thought to be some 200 million years old. The northern rim is a vertical wall of rock offering spectacular views and a record of geological time for geologists. The Maktesh is formed from an eroded hill that was uplifted from the floor of the ancient Tethys Sea. Hard limestone overlays various colored strata of sandstone and chalk. Dark volcanic hills of basalt dot the floor of the Maktesh.

The northern rim of Maktesh Ramon March 2017

The best time to visit the Maktesh is late afternoon when the angle of the sun brings out the vivid colors and forms in the crater floor.

The Crater Floor – the dark hills are the basalt remains of ancient volcanoes.

On the northern rim there is a small town called Mitzpeh Ramon. ‘Mitzpeh’ means ‘lookout’. Near the town is a small knob of a hill with the silhouette of a sitting camel, and it is called Camel Mountain. On the top of the ‘camel’s hump’ there is a wooden viewing platform. It is a wonderful spot from which to watch the sunset.

Camel Mountain.
A sunset from Camel Mountain

Another spot perfect for watching the setting sun is the Sculpture Park that stretches several kilometers along the northern rim to the east of the town.

Mt Arsuf at sunset from the Sculpture Park
the Sculpture Park at sunset
An Israeli stonehenge?

A camel ride in the Sculpture Park at sunset.
Ibex at sunset in the Sculpture Park

Another point of interest in the Sculpture Park are fossilized footprints.

fossilized camel prints (?)

In winter the rocky platform nearest the town is ablaze with the flowers of this shrubby succulent that somehow manages to survive on this exposed site.

Can anyone identify this plant?

If you have a few thousand dollars to throw away you could even stay in one of Israel’s most luxurious hotels, the Beresheet Hotel, near the Sculpture Park, and yes, each unit has its own swimming pool in addition to magnificent views of the Maktesh. And no, I have never stayed there and probably never will. I usually stay at the much more modest, but perfectly adequate, Field School just outside the town. There are many other options for accommodation ranging from camping or zimmers (B&Bs) to 5 star hotels.

The Beresheet Hotel in Mitzpeh Ramon

In Mitzpeh Ramon there is a large visitors center which features a display about Ilan Ramon, Israel’s most famous fighter pilot who spent a lot of his free time in the Maktesh area. Ilan was one of the pilots who flew to Iraq and bombed the nuclear reactor that Saddam Hussein was building there. He was also selected to be the first (and to date, only) Israeli astronaut but tragically he was killed on his first space flight, in the Columbia spacecraft that exploded in 2003. Sadly Ramon’s eldest son, Asaf, was also killed just 6 years later in an air force training flight accident.

The visitor center also has excellent displays, models and films about the geology and wildlife of the area. Nearby too is a tiny zoo featuring the smaller wild animals of the area, those that one seldom if ever will see in the wild. Its worth a visit just to get a close up of these beautiful creatures.

Its got to be the cutest denizen of the Maktesh – a Fat Sand Rat
Also cute in its own prickly way – a porcupine
Not cute at all – Horned Viper – but beautiful in its own way

Roaming around the streets of Mitzpeh Ramon you will without doubt encounter members of a semi-tame herd of ibex. They are not beyond accepting a tasty handout – even though it is forbidden to feed them!!!

Siesta time for grandad ibex
Do not feed the Ibex!

In the grounds of the visitor center is a curious stone tumulus (burial mound or cairn) from the 3rd millenium BCE.

A stone tumulus from the 3rd millenium BCE

There is a lot to do in and around the Maktesh. You can go stargazing (recommended) or do archery (a lot of fun) or even pat alpacas and llamas at the Alpaca Ranch. If you are of the adventurous kind you might even like to try abseiling down the cliff near the visitor center. (And no, I chickened out of that one). Every year when the Perseid meteor shower is visible thousands of Israelis flock to Mitzpeh and the town extinguishes its lights so that the meteors can be seen to best effect. I can also recommend joining a guided tour in a 4×4 which will take you to places otherwise inaccessible. (Note all the places described here are easily accessible by a regular car, bicycle or on foot).

Abseiling in Mitzpeh

If you descend the snaky road to the Maktesh floor there are many places to visit. One fascinating place is the Carpenter’s Shop, a hill made of the hexagonal crystals of sand that was once melted by volcanic action – the only such formation in the world.

Crystals formed from melted sand – the Carpenter’s Shop in the Makhtesh

The path to the top of the Carpenter’s shop is constructed from recycled plastic and if you are wearing rubber soled shoes you will get a shock if you touch the rope that serves as a handrail. I call it the electric road!!

The ‘electric road’ made from recycled plastic

A couple of kilometers past the Carpenter’s Shop is a site which was until recently mined for the colored kaolinite clay found there. The mine has now closed down and, though not signposted, the area is now open to the public and can be accessed by a good road which is passable even for regular cars and bicycles. The colored clays are spectacular.

Copper, iron and manganese clays at the old mine site.
Colorful rock at the mine site – its not lichen its different colored minerals.
Different colored clays at the mine site

Not far from the mine site is the Saharonim Spring, the only perennial water source in the Maktesh. For this reason its a great place to spot wildlife but you need to be quiet and patient. If you are lucky you may see the Asian wild ass (Onager) or the mountain gazelle herds that have been reintroduced after going extinct in the area. More likely you will see some Nubian ibex which are less afraid of man.

The Saharonim Spring at the deepest point of the Maktesh
Ibex at the Saharonim Spring
How many ibex can you see? (There are four)

Near the Saharonim Spring are the ruins of an ancient Nabatean khan or caravanserai which lies on the Spice Route that stretched from Yemen on the Persian Gulf to the port of Gaza on the Mediterranean Sea. The Spice Route crosses the eastern end of the Maktesh.

The Nabatean Khan

From Saharonim Spring there are a number of hiking trails. One is a circular route around the mountain to the east of the spring. This easy 2 – 3 hour trail is a favorite of mine and has a number of interesting features and if you are quiet you might spot some special wildlife too.

On the circular trail from Saharonim Spring
The holes in the rocks are formed by the roots of mangroves and some even contain the fossilized remains of the roots which indicate that this area was once a coastal mud flat.
A friendly little blackstart
An equally friendly Arabian babbler
A chalk canyon

Not far from the Saharonim Spring is the Ammonite Wall. These ancient fossils, some as large as half a meter in diameter, were once common all around the Maktesh but sadly many were looted for sale as decorative pieces. You can still see them at the Ammonite Wall. It is of course now forbidden to take any of the fossils.

Fossil Ammonites at the Ammonite Wall

There are many other hiking trails around the Maktesh and much to see and experience.

An acacia tree.
A wheatear on a flowering acacia tree.

Blackstart in an acacia tree
Spotted sand grouse
Wadi Gavannim

I hope you have enjoyed your virtual visit to the Maktesh. If you come to Israel don’t miss it. There is so much to do and see – but you need a car to access the sites. There are many other places that can be visited only by 4×4 or on foot. It would take a book to describe them all. The best time to visit the Maktesh is during the winter as in summer it can be very hot. In winter it can be cold at night and snow is not unknown on the higher parts. It is forbidden to stay in the Maktesh at night, not only for safety reasons but also to protect the wildlife, which is mostly active during the night hours. It is also dangerous to hike or visit the Maktesh floor when there is rain in the area because of the risk of deadly flash floods. In such conditions the roads may be closed.

All the photos are copyrighted in my name. If you wish to purchase any for use in publications (books or online), please contact me. I can supply higher definition photos than those that appear here.

EZUZ

 מִ֥י זֶה֮ מֶ֤לֶךְ הַכָּ֫ב֥וֹד יְ֭הוָה עִזּ֣וּז וְגִבּ֑וֹר יְ֝הוָ֗ה גִּבּ֥וֹר מִלְחָמָֽה׃

Who is this King of glory?
    The Lord strong and mighty,
    the Lord mighty in battle.

Psalm 24:8

Two hundred kilometers south of Jerusalem lies the tiny communal settlement of Ezuz, right on the Egyptian border. It is said to be the most isolated settlement in Israel today and I believed it as I drove south and then east with the setting sun behind me. The road narrowed to a one-lane sealed track and seemed to be heading nowhere. I was quite relieved when I spotted a young girl hitching in the same direction I was going. There must be something at the end of the road. I picked her up and she assured me I was on the right road.

Click on the link below to see a map:

https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Jerusalem/Ezuz/@31.2464706,34.4776276,9z/data=!4m14!4m13!1m5!1m1!1s0x1502d7d634c1fc4b:0xd96f623e456ee1cb!2m2!1d35.21371!2d31.768319!1m5!1m1!1s0x14fe01af0ac7af4f:0xa04d62aae7fdd994!2m2!1d34.472404!2d30.792202!3e0

The Road to Ezuz

It was the summer of 2016. I had just finished the school year and it had been a tough one. I was exhausted and didn’t know if I wanted to continue at that job so I went off into the most remote desert place I could find for a few days of rest and to seek God.

The sun was setting as I pulled into the collection of ramshackle buildings which is the settlement of Ezuz, a cooperative of various artists and artisans. My first impressions were pretty grim. It was a mess and there was a strong smell of bad drains and goats permeating the air. I wondered that creative people and artists would have such a poor sense of the aesthetic!

I soon however found my lodging which was a big improvement. I was staying at Zimmerbus – a B&B (without the breakfast) made from a converted bus. It was a beautiful example of upcycling! The bus was tastefully decorated with wood paneling, home crafted tiles and turquoise soft furnishings. It was also air-conditioned and insulated with an outside layer of dried mud. It was small but perfectly adequate for my needs. It had the added attraction of a swimming pool fed by natural running water.

Entrance to the Zimmerbus
Inside the Zimmerbus
The Zimmerbus with its outside kitchen
The Pool

After a refreshing sleep I set off next morning to explore. Knowing nothing of the area I just followed my nose. I saw a sign pointing to a farm and thought that might be interesting but soon came across other signs saying “NO ENTRY, BORDER AHEAD” and this was a little off-putting so I turned back.

I came instead to a lookout point where I ended up spending several hours enjoying the view while sitting in the shade. I entered into a long discourse with the boldest, sweetest little bird I have ever met. I think she was a female wheatear – a common desert bird – and I could hear the cheeping of chicks nearby. She wasn’t too happy about having a predator type so close to her nest and was determined to see me off. I was moved by her courage and resolve. This tiny, really tiny, little creature was telling me to go away in no uncertain terms. I had to love her.

Get off my territory!
I’m watching you
Can you see me?
Hi, I’m back and I am still watching you, but you seem harmless enough.
I need a stretch after all this posing

The next day I decided to explore the ruins of Nitzana which I had seen on my arrival. On a hilltop, on the site of an ancient Nabatean fortress, is the shell of the Turkish-German hospital built during the First World War, the walls still bearing the pock marks of shelling.

The Turkish German Hospital
Walls of the Turkish-German hospital with shell holes
The Tamarisk Tree and the Battalion 8 Memorial.

The signs warning of falling masonry and the intense heat that day soon drove me away. Spotting a lone tamarisk tree in the valley below I headed for its shade. Beside the tree an Israeli flag fluttered on an armored vehicle, a memorial in honor of the fallen soldiers of the Battle of ‘Auja (today called Nitzana) between the Israeli armored Battalion 8 and Egyptian forces in 1948. You can read about this battle on https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_%27Auja

Nearby were the remains of a Byzantine Era Christian Church, one of three in the area, attesting to the fact that the Nabateans of the region were Christianized during the 1st – 7th Centuries AD. The Nabateans settled along the main transport routes and this town was situated at the junction of two major branches of the Spice Route, the road to Shur and the road to Eilat the Red Sea. You can read more about the history and archaelogical sites in the area on this website : https://biblewalks.com/sites/Beerotayim.html

The Byzantine Church and aqueduct

One of the reasons I love to go off into the desert alone is that you see a lot more wildlife than if you are with a noisy group. If you sit quietly for a while you will almost always see some living creature of interest. Here is a lizard I spotted in spite of its amazing camouflage.

Long fringe-fingered lizard. (Acanthodactylus longipes (I think)

On my last morning at Ezuz I rose early before the morning mist dissipated and went for a walk on the Fields of the Stars on the plateau behind the settlement.

The field of the stars

My eyes were drawn to a white, shimmering bush off the side of the track. I knew it wasn’t the season for flowering so I wondered what it was. As I drew near I saw that it was a rather scraggy tamarisk bush, but unlike its neighbours, every leaflet bore a drop of dew shining in the sun.

Dew drops on a tamarisk bush

As I looked at this bush I remembered that the tamarisk is about the only tree that can grow in the salt laden, toxic desert soil. Its long tap roots can penetrate deep to find the water table, but even at depth the water is often full of salts and minerals that would kill any other tree. The tamarisk can survive because it has special gland cells in its leaves that can extrude this salt. I tasted the drops on its leaves. It was horribly bitter and tasted like iodine, and I could not get rid of that taste for some hours. (I don’t recommend tasting these droplets!!)

I felt the LORD was speaking to me through this tree. He had planted me in a toxic workplace but He had given me the way to survive there. I felt He was telling me to go back to work the next year and I did. My hours were cut to 80%, which meant it was less demanding, and at the end of the year, management decided to close the high school and I was laid off.

As the sun rose, the mist dissipated and as I headed back towards my car I was able to enjoy the views and some of the other flora and fauna.

Orange beetles on Globe thistle flower

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